This week we have a conversation from the 2024 Portland Book Festival on first-generation American food: cooking that combines tradition and lineage with evolution and personal stories. The conversation features a cookbook author and home chef, restaurant co-owners, and a writer and food editor.

We’ll hear from Kristina Cho, author of the cookbook “Chinese Enough,” which blends the flavors of traditional Cantonese cooking with California ingredients, reflecting her current home, and a midwestern sensibility drawn from her upbringing in Ohio. Kristina is joined by Jolyn Chen and Louis Lin, co-owners of the Portland restaurant Xiao Ye, which bills itself as “first-generation American food.” Jolyn is the general manager of Xiao Ye, and Louis is the chef – they’re both business and life partners. They grew up in California, and each worked in hospitality for years before embarking on their own restaurant, where Jolyn designed the space and Louis designed the menu. Our moderator is novelist Rachel Khong, author of “Real Americans,” who was the editor of the esteemed food magazine “Lucky Peach,” and also grew up in California.

Kristina, Jolyn, Louis, and Rachel discuss the intersections between their Asian-ness, their American-ness, and their Asian-American-ness, and how that all plays out in their relationships to food. They also talk about how where they grew up shapes their understanding of both food and family, and how the cooking and food they were drawn to comes from what was accessible or not to them early on. This relates to a conversation about the idea of authenticity, which is often misunderstood as being about tradition, but Louis eloquently describes as being true to oneself and where you are – Kristina gives an example of one of the women in her family using Bisquick in her steamed cupcakes.

One thing I loved about this conversation is how clear it is that making food, and, crucially, feeding people – which is the ultimate goal, after all, of both home cooks and restauranteurs – is about nourishment but also about making art, and art that is reflective of both where you came from and where you are now.

Let’s get into the conversation about what it means to make first-generation American food. Here are Jolyn Chen, Louis Lin, and Kristina Cho in conversation with moderator Rachel Khong.

Bio:

Kristina Cho is an award-winning cookbook author, recipe developer, home cook, baker, food stylist, and photographer. Her groundbreaking debut cookbook, “Mooncakes and Milk Bread,” won two James Beard awards and was described as an instant classic by The New York Times. Her latest cookbook is titled “Chinese Enough.”

Jolyn Chen has worn many hats and lived many lives; born and raised in a small suburb of Los Angeles, she attended Cal Poly Pomona’s renowned Collins College and received her Bachelor’s in Hospitality Management. She spent her early years in the industry working in Washington, DC, soaking up all that the burgeoning food scene had to offer. Most notably was her time at Rose’s Luxury, where she really began to foster her own sense of hospitality. In true Jolyn fashion, while working two part-time jobs, she took a third at El Camino Travel, a start-up boutique travel company specializing in small, curated trips to emerging destinations. It was through that experience that she discovered her passion for design.

Jolyn would move back to LA to pursue a career in Interior Design, completing the UCLA Extension program for Interior Architecture while working at Croft House & Ginny Macdonald Design. A few years later, she and Louis would begin their chapter in Portland, where she worked as a designer at Jessica Helgerson Interior Design before embarking on their own personal project, Xiao Ye.

Louis Lin is a child of Taiwanese immigrants and was born and raised in that same suburb outside of LA. Unlike Jolyn, Louis always knew where his path would take him. After getting his degree in Business Economics and Accounting at UC Santa Barbara, he enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone. From there, his career in kitchens began; Louis spent his externship working behind Nancy Silverton at her fine dining Osteria Mozza. Upon graduating from culinary school, at the behest of his best friend, Louis moved to Washington, DC to work for James Beard winner Aaron Silverman at his first restaurant, Rose’s Luxury. Rose’s would go on to receive numerous accolades- Bon Appetit’s best new restaurant in 2014 and a Michelin Star, amongst others. When Silverman opened his second venture, Pineapple and Pearls, Louis would follow him as an opening line cook and help the tasting-menu restaurant earn 2 Michelin Stars in its inaugural year.

In 2017, Louis moved back to Los Angeles and began working at Evan Funke’s Felix Trattoria. It was there that he found his footing; working his way up from line cook to Chef de Cuisine, running day to day operations and overseeing the restaurant that has become the standard bearer for handmade pasta in the country.

Rachel Khong is the author of “Goodbye, Vitamin,” winner of the California Book Award for First Fiction, and named a Best Book of the Year by NPR; O, The Oprah Magazine; Vogue; and Esquire. Her work has appeared in The New York Times Book Review, The Cut, The Guardian, The Paris Review, and Tin House. In 2018, she founded The Ruby, a work and event space for women and nonbinary writers and artists in San Francisco’s Mission District. She lives in California, and her latest novel is titled Real Americans.

News Source : https://www.opb.org/article/2025/05/12/the-archive-project-first-gen-food-kristina-cho-joyln-chen-louis-lin/